Creative Commons License
Fab Dog House by Mario Fullone - Sketch Design is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
Permissions beyond the scope of this license may be available at mariofullone1@gmail.com.

After I made all cables for the electronic parts and after that I tried them, I took my personal spray cans for to paint all doghouse.

My personal arsenal of spray cans! ;)

I used this spray cans, because they are very high performance, for quality, for durability, for water resistant, for high coverage and low consumption. Usually, in the past, I used them for graffiti art, with only one spray you can cover a large wall area and the paints, after many years they are very well preserved. Obviously, it depends on the surface that is painted.

Anyway, I used colours that I had already. I didn’t have one spray can completely full. I painted it without disassembling the whole, but I have helped with pieces of wood and a spatula to cover the parts already painted. I started to paint the brown wall and after the white wall, front and back, and finally I paint the internal parts.

Painting the Fab Dog House

How can you see I didn’t assembly the curved parts, I painted them elsewhere. After that, I painted the logo with a stencil made with laser cutter.

Icon stancil

Finally, I studied one way for to bend again the curved parts, but it was not simple because this plywood of 6mm is very strong to bend.

The first attempt has been to attach one piece for support with a vinyl glue and some tacks.

Vinyl glue attach

Fixing the taks one this curved pieces

But to be able do this I had to use one support for to maintain the position of the piece, and to wait for the drying of the glue.

Fix support

But all this it was not enough. Because when I removed the supports, after some hour, the curved pieces have resumed their original shape. I helped myself with another tacks, but this was not enough again! At finally I tried to use some small screw. I saw that this way it was better, so for the curved bottom pieces I used only small screw. The curvature of the pieces was obtained much better.

In this picture, you can see that I started to fix the bottom part with the screws. After I bend it and fix with other screws.

Fixing the bottom curved pieces

Instead, in this picture, you can see the difference of precision between the first curved pieces at the top and it is what's under the doghouse.

Comparison between first and second attempt

When the doghouse was ready, I mount all electronic parts. For first thing, I positioned the temperature sensor near to LSC solar panel and the ultrasonic sensor on the top of water dispense.

Placement of ultrasonic and temperature sensor.

Zoom of ultraosinc sensor position.

Zoom of temperature sensor position.

Bellow the doghouse, I positioned all boards and battery. Here you can see the Lipo rider pro board with red led on, this meaning that the board is charging the battery with energy coming to LSC solar panel.

Charging battery with Lipo rider pro and LSC solar panel.

In this video, you can see all boards positioned. The small board is ATtiny 45 board with photoresistor that I placed it near the wall out of doghouse.








Regarding the solar panel, the LSC panel, for first thing I tried it connecting directly the solar panel power to my Satshakit and it work very well directly to solar light, nice!



Therefore, I made the engraving on the solar panel with the laser cutter how I made the first engraving on the lateral panel of doghouse. Furthermore, I did one small cut on the panel, very closed to the perimeter, for include one small led.

Position of the LED, in LSC solar panel

I fix and protected the led with hot glue, filling the hole, just made.

I prepared one code for to create one crepuscular system, with led and one photoresistor. For this, I used the ATtiny 45 board and photoresistor that I already made in the week Week 12 (input device).

Therefore, when there is natural light, or artificial light present, the crepuscular is turn-off, instead, when is dark, the Led lights up.

Testing crepuscolar system with LSC solar panel

You can see in this image that I used one board, LiPo Rider Pro, that allows me connect the LSC panel to my electronic board and one battery. When the light is present the solar panel recharge the battery, instead, when is dark the battery give power to all circuit.

Here you can see and download the crepuscular code.

// ***CREPUSCOLAR CODE***

#include 

// #define rxPin -1   // I don't have Rx pin on my board
#define txPin 3   // My Tx pin is on PB3 port

SendOnlySoftwareSerial mySerial(txPin); // Configure Serial Port

const int sensorValue = 600;  //imposta il valore del sensore
int ledPin = 2; // connettere il LED al pin digitale 5
void setup() { // esegui una sola volta quando il disegno inizia
pinMode(ledPin,OUTPUT); // imposta il piedino 5 come uscita
mySerial.begin (9600);  // imposta comunicazione seriale 9600bps
}

void loop() {  //esegui più volte
int sensor = analogRead(A2); // imposta il sensore
if (sensor < sensorValue) {  // registra il valore max del sensore
digitalWrite(ledPin,LOW);  // imposta il piedino 5 a livello basso
mySerial.println("giorno");  // stampa "giorno" sul monitor

 /*
  mySerial.print("Input Val: "); // for debugging
  mySerial.print(sensor);
  mySerial.println();
 */
 
delay(1000);  //attende 1 secondo
}

else {
digitalWrite(ledPin,HIGH);  // imposta il piedino 5 a livello alto
mySerial.println("notte");  // stampa "notte" sul monitor

 /* 
  mySerial.print("Input Val: ");  // for debugging
  mySerial.print(sensor);
  mySerial.println();
 */
  
delay(1000);    // attende 1 secondo
 }
}

After this, I created only one code for ultrasonic and temperature sensor, because I used these with only Satshakit. Therefore, I made the cable for all electronic parts.

Here you can see and download the temperature and ultrasonic code.

// ***TEMPERATURE & ULTRASONIC CODE***

#include 
dht11 DHT;
#define DHT11_PIN 6

const int HighTemp = 35;
const int LowTemp = 10;

int pin = 7; // connected to the Trig on the module, this serves as both Trigger and Echo
unsigned long time;
unsigned long sizeofpulse;
int cm;
const int sensorValue = 37;  //impostazione liv. min. dell'acqua (Attenzione, il sensore misura dall'alto al basso, non il livello dell'acqua), ma la distanza da essa
 
void setup(){
  Serial.begin(9600);
  pinMode(pin, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(pin, HIGH); // Trig pin is normally HIGH
  
  Serial.println("DHT TEST PROGRAM ");
  Serial.print("LIBRARY VERSION: ");
  Serial.println(DHT11LIB_VERSION);
  Serial.println();
  Serial.println("Place,\t\t\tstatus,\t\tHumidity (%),\t\tTemperature (C), \t\tWater (cm)");
}
 
void loop(){
  int chk;
   chk = DHT.read(DHT11_PIN);    // READ DATA

   pinMode(pin, OUTPUT); //return digital pin to OUTPUT mode after reading
    digitalWrite(pin, LOW);
    delayMicroseconds(25);
    digitalWrite(pin, HIGH); //Trig pin pulsed LOW for 25usec
    time = micros(); //record timer
    pinMode(pin, INPUT); //change pin to INPUT to read the echo pulse
    sizeofpulse = pulseIn(pin, LOW, 18000); //should be approx 150usec, timeout at 18msec
    time = micros() - time - sizeofpulse; // amount of time elapsed since we sent the trigger pulse and detect the echo pulse, then subtract the size of the echo pulse
    cm=(time*340.29/2/10000)-3; // convert to distance in centimeters
  

// HIGH TEMP!
if (DHT.temperature > HighTemp) {  // read over max temp
Serial.println("It's very hot, I need to fresh!");  // stampa un "alert" sul monitor
Serial.print("Temp\t");
Serial.println(DHT.temperature,1);
  delay(1000);
}

// LOW TEMP!
 if (DHT.temperature < LowTemp) {  // read over min temp
Serial.println("It's very cold, I need to warm!");  // stampa un "alert" sul monitor
Serial.print("Temp\t");
Serial.println(DHT.temperature,1);
  delay(1000);
}


// Read Temp
else { 
  Serial.print("Fab Dog House, \t\t");
       switch (chk){
    case DHTLIB_OK:
                Serial.print("");   
                Serial.print("  OK\t"); 
                break;
    case DHTLIB_ERROR_CHECKSUM: 
                Serial.print("Checksum error\t"); 
                break;
    case DHTLIB_ERROR_TIMEOUT: 
                Serial.print("Time out error\t"); 
                break;
    default: 
                Serial.print("Unknown error\t"); 
                break;
  }

  if (cm > sensorValue) {  // registra il valore min dell'acqua
  Serial.println("Please, I need water!");  // stampa un "alert" sul monitor
  delay(1000);
 }
 
 // DISPLAT DATA
  Serial.print("\t   ");
  Serial.print(DHT.humidity,1);
  Serial.print("\t\t\t    ");
  Serial.print(DHT.temperature,1);
  Serial.print("\t\t\t\t   ");
  Serial.println(cm);
 
  delay(1000);
  }
}





I already cut all plywood pieces, but I didn’t cut the plexiglass pieces. So, I did many attempt for to find the correct kerf.

Water dispense 2D file

I had available some pieces of Plexiglas of 5 mm, but it was enough. So, I also used 2 pieces of 6 mm, for front and back of water dispense. Furthermore, these two pieces were frosted plexiglass, but it was perfect, because the engraving graphic would be seen better.

Water dispense assembly

In the graphics, you can see the minimum level and the maximum. The minimum is only engraving, while the maximum is a hole. In this way, when it’s rain and the water dispense fills up and reaches the maximum level, the water will come out of this hole.

Water dispense assembled

Before this, I did some tests with one ultrasonic sensor, one Satshakit for to measure the water level in one transparent recipient.

I had available the ultrasonic SDM-IO, after that I found the correct code, I did the water test, and it work very well, you can see the original distance with my rule, 19 cm, and after you can see the measurement on my monitor, 19 cm.



Here you can see and download the ultrasonic SDM_IO code.

// ***ULTRASONIC SENSOR CODE***

int pin = 7; // connected to the Trig on the module, this serves as both Trigger and Echo
unsigned long time;
unsigned long sizeofpulse;
int cm;
const int sensorValue = 37;  //impostazione liv. min. dell'acqua (Attenzione, il sensore misura dall'alto al basso, non il livello dell'acqua), ma la distanza da essa

void setup()
{
Serial.begin(9600);
pinMode(pin, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(pin, HIGH); // Trig pin is normally HIGH
}
 
void loop()
{
pinMode(pin, OUTPUT); //return digital pin to OUTPUT mode after reading
digitalWrite(pin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(25);
digitalWrite(pin, HIGH); //Trig pin pulsed LOW for 25usec
time = micros(); //record timer
pinMode(pin, INPUT); //change pin to INPUT to read the echo pulse
sizeofpulse = pulseIn(pin, LOW, 18000); //should be approx 150usec, timeout at 18msec
time = micros() - time - sizeofpulse; // amount of time elapsed since we sent the trigger pulse and detect the echo pulse, then subtract the size of the echo pulse
cm=(time*340.29/2/10000)-3; // convert to distance in centimeters

if (cm > sensorValue) {  // registra il valore min dell'acqua
Serial.println("Please, I need water!");  // stampa un "alert" sul monitor
  delay(10000);
}

else {
Serial.print(cm);
  Serial.println(" cm;");
  delay(10000);
 }
}

After this, I tried the sensor of temperature and humidity. I had available one DHT11 Led. Also here, set the correct code, and after I tried this, measuring the normally temperature, and after I approached the sensor next to my PC fan, for test the correct temperature sensor.



Here you can see and download the temperature sensor.

// ***TEMPERATURE SENSOR CODE***

#include 
dht11 DHT;
#define DHT11_PIN 6

const int HighTemp = 35;
const int LowTemp = 10;
 
void setup(){
  Serial.begin(9600);
  Serial.println("DHT TEST PROGRAM ");
  Serial.print("LIBRARY VERSION: ");
  Serial.println(DHT11LIB_VERSION);
  Serial.println();
  Serial.println("Place,\t\t\tstatus,\t\tHumidity (%),\t\tTemperature (C)");
}
 
void loop(){
  int chk;
   chk = DHT.read(DHT11_PIN);    // READ DATA
  

// HIGH TEMP!
if (DHT.temperature > HighTemp) {  // read over max temp
Serial.println("It's very hot, I need to fresh!");  // stampa un "alert" sul monitor
Serial.print("Temp\t");
Serial.println(DHT.temperature,1);
  delay(1000);
}

// LOW TEMP!
 if (DHT.temperature < LowTemp) {  // read over min temp
Serial.println("It's very cold, I need to warm!");  // stampa un "alert" sul monitor
Serial.print("Temp\t");
Serial.println(DHT.temperature,1);
  delay(1000);
}


// Read Temp
else { 
  Serial.print("Fab Dog House, \t\t");
       switch (chk){
    case DHTLIB_OK:
                Serial.print("");   
                Serial.print("  OK\t"); 
                break;
    case DHTLIB_ERROR_CHECKSUM: 
                Serial.print("Checksum error\t"); 
                break;
    case DHTLIB_ERROR_TIMEOUT: 
                Serial.print("Time out error\t"); 
                break;
    default: 
                Serial.print("Unknown error\t"); 
                break;
  }
  
 // DISPLAT DATA
  Serial.print("\t   ");
  Serial.print(DHT.humidity,1);
  Serial.print("\t\t\t    ");
  Serial.println(DHT.temperature,1);
 
  delay(1000);
 }
}





After about half day, I cut all panels. While the laser cutter working, I assembled some, piece and printed the two pieces of PLA.

Some cutted pieces

Initial assembly

Water funnel 3D printed

Board bowl 3D printed

Step by step, I assembly all pieces except the curved parts. Besides, I regretted not having them assembled before having painted it. Because after this, when I assembled these pieces, I had spoiled it a little bit.

Partial assembly

Assembly ready for painting

Meantime, I prepared the scene, in Autodesk Showcase software, for to launch some rendering, both for to understand what colours could be suitable and for understand better the construction.

Preparing the rendering scene

Front side

Back side

Water collector particular

Water dispenser particular

I made one rendering of exploded rendering, for to see better all pieces.

Exploded rendering

In addition, I made one simple video rendering, for to see better all the model.



Here you can find all files for the original rendering scene in showcase format.






After that I made all executive drawings, I started to make the first panel, but immediately I had a problem. When the laser cutter finished the work, I saw that He had not cut all the pieces of the panel, because the laser cutter was not focus. So I studied how could focus the laser cutter, after many attempts, after one day, I did it! Now the laser cutter better and it can go fast!



So, after many test, I started to make all panels.

First Laser focus

Last laser focus

I prepared all principal pieces, so I could to start to organize the assembly. Here you can see some piece of the doghouse.

But, before all this, I made the assembly drawing. Because for do not wrong the assembly doghouse, because there is a particular order for this, otherwise it does not coincide anything. Therefore, I made it for who want make this in any Fablab, in this way it is simpler to assembly.

Assembly instruction drawing, first page

Assembly instruction drawing, second page

Using the instruction drawing for the assembly

Meantime, I thought one way for to make the Fab Dog House icon raster one the wall. Because, I if I lunched all file raster, the time was very high, like 15 hr! So made a small file, only with the icon, and I measured on Rhino the distance from the origin point.

Measuring the position of icon

Setting right position of laser for to work

In this way, I could move with the command “move relative” the laser in this exact coordinate and lunched the work file.

First, I made one attempt, and after I lunched the work file on the final panel.

First attempt

Working definitive raster icon






For to take the 2D model I use one more useful Rhino plug-in, Rhino Nest. I selected the 3D model and I used the first command “align objects” which explode the object and take all pieces on the ground.

Align objects (Rhino Nest command)

After this, I used “make 2D” command, for create the 2D draw and I corrected the kerf for the joints.

Make 2D and correcting kerf

I created the groups with Rhino Nest command “group content”. I tried, with some attempts, to find a correct set for “nest” command, for to make no more plywood panel.

Nest command

Finally, I calculated approximately the work time of laser cutter.

Calculating laser cut work time

Here you can fine the original file, with all steps.






When I finished drawing the 3D model, and all joints. I studied the typologies of joints, for the kerf and the design of curved parts.

After many attempts, I understood which for the curved parts it was better to do the line kerf like this:

Various kerf typologies

The plywood in this way can be curved, but it was very difficult to maintain the position, because the panel of 6 mm it is very strong to curve in this way. I tried also to curve the plywood with hot water, I did it fine, but the panel it was brake because the glue get off with hot water.

I used one formula for to find a correct kerf size, but it was not enough. So I thought to make some attempts for understand the correct length.

Kerf Formula

Right kerf test

In this way, I saw also that I must find one way for to hold the pieces curved. I saw that I could use the pipe of laser cutter for to hold the panels.

Therefore, after cut the panel I attached it to the pipe of laser cutter for 2 days with the cable ties.

Curvature of wooden panels

After this, I decided to try three typologies of joint kerf: one stronger for the horizontal joint, one stronger for the perpendicular joints and the last one for the perpendicular joint but not strong, for to mount and dismount the roof in one easy way.

Types of joints

Kerf joints test

When I found a correct kerf, I modified all joints of the 2D model and I prepared the 2D file for the laser cutter, first one dxf and after the pdf.






After many modifications, I created a new 3D model. The design is more similar, but internally, the dimensions there are different. The first change is the position of water dispense, I created one big dispenser of water at the centre in front of doghouse. It is taller, large, but it’s a little bit deep. It has a design like the “L”. Therefore, I had to change the entrance making it deeper than the first model

New 3D model

You can see in front of the water dispense I draw some graphics for to indicate the level of water (min, max). At the max level, I made one cut in the Plexiglas. In this way, when it’s rain and the level of water come to the max level, it go out, from this hole.

Water dispense

In the first time, I drew the position of things, and I studied the space. After that, I found the nice design e position of things, I thought how can I made it with the laser cutter. Because the first big problem was that I had some big pieces, more than the work space of laser cutter. So I thought that I could divide this pieces. Therefore, I design all the joints. For this, I used a more useful Rhino Script, LaserCutFabTools, for laser cutter that I suggest to anyone. Here you can find the tutorial for the installation, thanks to Stefano Paradiso.

In this time, I didn’t calculate the kerf. But I did it, after, when I made the 2D for the laser cutter.

Also, I thought one way for to open the doghouse from the roof in one easy way. Because anyone can lift the roof for to clean or for another motivation to access internal parts.

Roof opening

In the roof, it’s hidden one simple system of slides for the water collector. The slides flow the water in one piece like a funnel made with 3D print. For to avoid some trash in the water, like the simple leafs, I put one metallic net.

Water collector mechanism

For the LSC Panel I studied one simple system for to block it, with the floor and one piece on the top.

LSC Panel block

Under the floor, I modified the access for the electronic parts.

Electronic parts access

I created four footer like one “L” and one small wall for not access the small animal etc.

Finally, in the winter, or autumn, when the temperature is cold, you can cover the hexagonal holes with one plywood panel. Instead, in the spring or summer, when the temperature is so hot, you can leave the holes without the addition panel, because there is the metallic net.

Extra plywood panel, when the temperature is cold






After that I made the 2D, I started with 3D model, but I thought that the space it was too small, especially the entrance.

Internal concept

I saw that the bowls stayed in front of the LSC Panel, and I thought that it was not nice, because the panel is transparent.

Therefore, I saw that the classic bowl it occupy more space. Here I decided to make only water dispenser, with another design.

I thought that I could divide the unique space in 2 parts, one for to sleep and one for the entrance and water dispense.

Under the doghouse, I decided that it didn’t stay on the ground directly, but on some little rise, for better stabilization. Therefore, I made the floor upper of about 10 cm from the ground, so I thought that I could to use this space for the electronic parts.

Place of electronic parts

This was only the first 3D sketch of the doghouse.






After that, I participated to ENI challenge, in Milan. I understand better the utility of LSC Panel (Luminescent Solar Concentrators). In my first project, where I used it, I didn’t use all LSC potentiality. For my opinion because I used it how the normal solar panel, I collocated the LSC panel on the roof. But the really potentiality of this panel are:

  • Transparency;
  • Luminescent;
  • Colourful;
  • This panel can stay in vertical and not necessary in direction of the sun, thanks to the luminescent characteristic.
  • This panel can be used in the design of project, because it can be nice to see.

After this consideration, I studied the new design of doghouse. In addition, I studied another the ergonomic characteristic, because the first project was too big, and in my opinion, I could find a new better solution for the entrance.

I thought also that I for to create a compact doghouse, I could to integrated only the water dispense, changing the design of bowl.

In addition, I liked to made a project can be construct in any Fablab in the world. For this, I wanted to simplify the design and to create the assembly instruction.

First thing, I researched the actually doghouse, for to understand the principally characteristics. But also first this I decided the dog size that can use this doghouse. A perfect dog that can use this doghouse is one dog of small size, not micro size, like a Chihuahua, but a little more big, like a pug or similar.


After this consideration, I find the size of bowl. It is too big, for this compact doghouse. So I decided to project a small bowl, only for the water. This design must be not rounded, like circle, but like a square. For the size of the doghouse, usually is 72*52*72 cm, and the entrance is 18*31 cm. For to optimized the space it must be like a cube.

Various size dog's bowl

Various size dog house size



Example of dog house size

Sketches fab dog house 2.0

I thought a one way for to do not direct entrance, for the wind or rain. In addiction in this pace can be stay the water dispense. So I divided the internal space with one wall of simple plywood. So, the entrance space can be around to 20*75 cm and the principal space for to take rest or sleep can be around 55*75 cm.

The roof can be used only for water collector and i can use the solar panel like the wall or window. After some sketch, I find a good design for doghouse, so I started to draw it on Rhino.

In the first time, I tried to create the space also for the food dispenser, but the space it was not enough.

First 2D model of Fab Dog House 2.0

You can see that I used a two principal design. The first one is the rounded square, symbol of simplify and rounded because it is modern. The second one is the hexagon, for me it is a symbol of nature, like the beehive. In addiction. This hexagon it isn’t random, but anyone can be personalize it with the Grasshopper algorithmic.

Control algorithm model

It very simple to change the algorithmic, with these slides. The algorithmic has one workspace, the rectangle of doghouse’s wall and one attractor point in the centre, where is the symbol.

Grasshopper algorithm model

You can find Grasshopper Algorithmic and the original 2D file here.








For the final project, I opted to change the theme of project. In Fab Lab Toscana we received an invitation of one design contest from ENI (energy company) for to made one project with a new technology, and present it during the “New Craft” event in The XXI Triennale in Milan.
We had have two options of technologies:

  • Luminescent Solar Concentrators (LSC) are composed of slabs of a transparent material, plastic or glass, in which a dispersed fluorescent dye absorbs a portion of the radiation received from the sun and re-emits it within the slab.
  • The Organic PhotoVoltaic (OPV) cells are devices whose active element is a mixture of polymers and other organic compounds. Specific features of the technology are: the ability to create flexible devices by means of printing techniques, a superior design, and a superior device lightness.
  • So in this week I create one new Final Project (3D model, rendering, small prototype), and I prepared one slide presentation for the event. In this updating, you can see some slide that I will use tomorrow at The XXI Triennale in Milan.

    Luminescent Solar Concentrators (LSC)

    The requirement for the project was only the one green idea for domestic use. So I implement another personal requirement, for external domestic use, open source and to make possible to build this project in any Fab Lab.



    I wanted to use only one LSC panel (50x50 cm), so I thought to make one digital doghouse. The idea started thinking when our dog stay at home alone and finish the water or the food.



    Actually already, exist some automatic dispenser for water and food like this. But I wanted create some device that advise when the stash of food or water are about to end.



    Furthermore the device advice when the temperature in the doghouse is too low or high.



    I thought to find one way for to reuse the rainwater, for to fill the supply of water.



    I researched sketching on paper, one design for all this things.



    After I made one 3D model and to create some rendering.



    This design allows one better exposition of LSC panel so the sun creating one suggest suggestive light in front of the entrance of where the dog to sleep. Furthermore the roof allows to take the rainwater and creating the shadow in front of the doghouse and to behind, protecting the food and the water to the direct sun light.

    Where the dog to sleep have some air vents that can use in the summer, but you can close in the winter with some panel from to inside. The inside of doghouse will be accessible from the roof in this way.



    The material that I thought to use was some panel of wood for to laser cutter, I would to use the texture for to fold the panel.



    Also, I would to use one composite material for to make one light and resistant waterproof material.



    Finally, I thought to one App demo for to control the water, food, temperature and time to breaks.








    I downloaded from Thingiverse the 3D file for to print the prototype of soft robotic, one tentacle mobile. In the file, there are present many object. Someone for the 3D printer, others for the laser cutter.

    Considering that worktop of Zortrax is smaller than the objects to be realized, I thought of to scale all pieces, about 50%.

    File 3D.

    I sent the print to max quality for to create the first die of internal pipes.

    Zortrax print file.

    Before that, I could to use the laser cutter, I had to modify the joints, because after the scaling object, the joints were wrong. With this opportunity, I designed related to material that I had available, that is one panel of 6 mm.

    The base of the support model.

    Meantime I printed another 3 pieces that I needed, and I joined with bolts and closed hermetically with hot glue.

    Mold assembly.

    Hermetic sealing with the hot glue.



    Meantime I printed another 3 pieces that I needed, and I joined with bolts and closed hermetically with hot glue.

    Depositing silicone rubber.

    Depositing resin in the die.


    Resin pieces.

    Assembling the resin pieces.



    Therefore, at this point, I had all necessary pieces. Then I took the resin pieces inside the black die and poured the silicone rubber

    Depositing silicone rubber inside the die.

    Opening die.


    But, I did an important error!!! I would not have had to use the resin, but the wax. Because, when I tried to remove the resin pieces from inside, this was an mission impossible! Because it was created by the vacuum. So, after many attempts, I had to break the resin pieces, but it was difficult the same. Furthermore, I punctured the piece of silicone rubber. Therefore I didn’t use it well for experiment, because the air compressed came out from holes. I tried to close the holes somehow with the hot glue, but it was in vain, because a bit air came out equally. The object moved a little bit, but not very well.

    Resin pieces inside the silicone rubber die.

    First soft robotic prototype. (FAIL)






    For the 5th week I printed the first prototype scaled of my final project, only for studing the static part design.

    Read more -->

    Voronoi Lamp from Mario Fullone on Vimeo.





    For my final project, I thought to do one desk lamp. Because I would to do a useful project, and I can use organic design.

    For the 2th week, I did some sketch about my final project, and I made the first possible 3D model and rendering.

    Read more -->


    Creative Commons License
    Fab Dog House by Mario Fullone - Sketch Design is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
    Permissions beyond the scope of this license may be available at mariofullone1@gmail.com.

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