For this assignment, I chose one model already prepared on Thingiverse. This is the Daedric dagger from Skyrim, but that was original size. I scaled it, for to make it in one piece of wax (167 x 79 x 30 mm). For to optimize the size, I drew the piece of wax on 3D file in Rhino.

3D model preparation.

Depth of milling.

Before it, I drew some cylinders for align two sides of die. In addition, I planned more escape channels for the air and one cone for the casting of resin. The escape channels were near to the small details of dagger, for don’t create air bubble in this tight spots. I calculated 8 mm of space above the 3D model, that it will be the minor thickness of silicon rubber.

Drawing channels for the air.

I exported it in two stl files, for to import in Cut 3D software. I milled first one side, and after the other. In this way, I could understand which setting is better. In fact, in the first model I chose the slow setting, while in the second one I changed the parameters. After set the dimension of piece of wax, the position of origin and depth of 3D model, I chose the the 1/8” tool. With 20 mm/sec of feed rate and 10mm/sec of plunge rate. Then I choose the 1/16 “ tool with same options. Finally, I create one preview, for to see that all it was ok.

Set wax size.

Set roughing toolpath.

Set Finishing toolpath.

Preview Machining.

After that I created two file, one for 1/8 tool and the other one for 1/16 tool, for Roland SRM-20. I mounted one big special tool (5 mm) on machine, attached the wax piece just used in milling machine and after setting XY home and Z home, I levelled it.

Fix wax block.

Used wax block.

Mounting 5mm tool.

Levelling wax.

When the machine finished it, I mounted the 1/8” tool and set a new home moving the tool with machine software of 4 mm offset. Then I started to mill the roughing toolpath.

Roughing toolpath in action.

Roughing toolpath finished.

After that, I changed the tool with 1/16” and starting with finishing toolpath.

First 3D model side finished.

With the same way, I milled the other face of my model, but before I had to set another home.

Milling other side.

Die for silicon casting ready.

After this, I prepared all things for the molding. I already used Prochima silicon, this time I wanted to use the new one, TFC Silikon Kautschuk Typ 12 Shore 30.

Preparing all things for the molding.

This silicon to need one part for each component, so I took 30 gr of Part A and 30 gr for Part B. I mixed it very well and I used one cotton buds for to spread the silicon on the 3D model, for don’t waste one brush. Immediately after this, I casted the silicon from one high position, for to create one thin cascade.

Component A.

Component B.

Brushing the first layer of resin

Casting resin.

At finally I saw that the silicon was not enough, so I used another 40 gr in addition, and I casted it immediately.

Awaiting curing the silicone.

After 8 hour, I could to take my die. I used one back of brush for take it. I insert it inside the model and turning it, in this way it was simple to lift the die from the wax. In the second form, the wax cylinders were brake in the silicon, but it’s ok, because I no longer need of it.

Removing the silicone mold.

Some cylinders broke inside the mold.

Ready for resin casting.

The dies were very well, without any ball. The resin step was been a little bit difficult, for many reasons. In the first attempt, I used the Smooth-on resin, but it catalysed after only 10 minutes and I hadn’t more time for to the casting, in fact the model wasn’t done well.

First attempt, with Smooth-on resin.

I repeated the work, but this time with the Prochima resin, Sintafoam HD. Then, I close some air intakes with plasticine, because I saw that the resin come out from there. I brushed the first casting of resin with cotton buds. After about 20 minutes, I casting the second resin prepared, but this time with the die closed, with scotch and clamps.

Closing some air channel hole.

Brushing first layer of resin.

Casting the resin in the mold.

Second attempt, with Prochima resin.

But the result wasn’t well another time. This time was better than last attempt, but not enough, because in the last part of dagger, was create some ball, because the resin came out from holes, and then went down in the model. So, I thought that I could try to casting the resin in twice time, but also this attempt fail, because the resin catalysed blocked the new casting resin. Anyway, I wanted to try last time, but this time I want to cast all resin in once time, without to brush it. And this time the model was found well, enough.

Churning out the piece from the mold.

Last attempt has gone fine.

Here you can see the video where I show how I casting it. After the casting, I rotated many times the model, and I hugged hard with hand, for to take over the air, and then casting again.

I decided to refine the object and to paint with airbrush, but in the first time, I had to use some stucco for close some defect of surface. After that I smoothed it with paper fine glass.

Hole in the model.

Stucco bicomponent.

Appling the stucco.

Refine the surface.

I already use the airbrush, for drawing, but I never use it for painting object. So, considering that I didn’t use it about 5 years, I wanted to take one attempt on scrap piece, for to try some technique.

I started to use a soft base colour, sepia. I use with my airbrush only watercolour. Because for me this colours are perfect, and simple to use. For example, for this painting I used only one drop of colours and ten drops of water!

Colour sepia.

First step of airbrusing.

After this first step, I put a little bit of fixative and I brushed with the black colour.

Application of fixative.

Black colour step.

Black finish.

At my home, I didn’t have little brush, so I decided to use the cotton swab for to make some effect. I used burnt umber colour and after, with the knife, I scratched the surfaced. In this way the base colour came back out.

Application burnt umber colour with cotton swap.

Scratching the model with knife.

Result obtained.

I had one special product for the chromium plating for airbrush, but not using it for too much time the cleaning solution dried up, so I didn’t risked to use it with my airbrush, because my airbrush could get clogged. Therefore, I use it with cotton swab. After that, I cleaned the dirty black surface with airbrush and black colour.

Products for chromium plating.

Chrome plating applied.

For the thin brushing, I used my knife. For the blood effect, I always used the cotton swap and knife.

At finally, I use twice typology of transparent, one matt, for the handle of the dagger and the shiny transparent for the chrome parts.

Knife brushing.

Blood effect.

Model finished.

For the second model in addition, I chose my 3D logo that I made in the 5th week, for to make the metal fusion. But before I wanted to fuse the wax scraps for to reuse it. I like so much this milling machine than the 3D printing for to reason: For the smoot surface of 3D model and for the recycle the material! Anyway I cut one box with the laser cutter and I used it for stamp.

Wax scraps.

Preparing the wax scraps in one small pot.

Melted wax.

In the mold casting.

After many minutes, I lifted the ne wax block and I cut it because my new 3D model was smaller than this. I mounted it in the milling machine and I levelled it.

Churning out the piece from the mold.

Cutting the wax block.

Two wax pieces reusable.

Levelling wax.

Wax block ready for milling.

I changed the tool with the 1/8” and set the home and I lunched the work. But when I used the 1/64 tool, for to have more particular, I have one problem. This tool is shortest than other tool, so didn’t reach the block of wax! I tried to set another time the Z axis home, extended the tool to max length, but it wasn’t enough! So I had to take the wax and to change the work plate with which one higher. After this, I had to reset the home by eye, but the wax on this work plate was instable, and it was move damaging the job.

In the video, you can see the first job, and the movement of wax at the final. I tried to hold the wax in some way, but it's not been successful. Then, I had to use another one block of wax, and to re-launch the job and that’s it.

Resetting XY home with 1/64" tool by eye.

3D model broken.

Milling second attempt.

Milling ended.

Finally I could to prepare all things for the fusion.

I took the clay, with the die and the furnace with the material. We have the Zamak alloy that it fuse approximately at 400°.

At first, I broke into small pieces the clay, put it into the one middle mold and press it. I put my wax logo on the clay and I sprinkled talcum powder on it.

Breaking the clay into small pieces.

Putting clay into the mold.

Levelling the mold clay.

Putting 3D logo inside.

After that I mounted the other middle die, I took the clay and put into this middle one pressing it. Then I opened it and I made some air intakes and one hole for the casting with one funnel on the other side. This funnel must stay as close as possible to the other side.

The other half mold filled.

Opening the mold.

Making the air channels in the mold.

Making the funnel for metal casting.

I made some mistake, I forgot to make the hole on the air intakes, but despite this I managed to make the casting well. Naturally, for the first time, I did it not very well, it was some imperfection on the surface. I refine it, but it has maintained some imperfection.

Metal casting.

Churning out the piece from the mold.

Cleaning the metal piece.

Ready model after manual finishing.

After this job, I wanted to try to make one gift for my girl, I already printed the model with the 3D printer. It was one trinket of two thin children drawn. Here the difficult was to put the metal in this thin channel. At the first attempt, I followed the same method, but it didn’t go well, because the metal stopped near to the hole casting. So, I wanted to try to make another hole for casting that rejoin in the funnel. In this way, the casting went well. I refined it and that’s it.

First 3D model printed.

Model churned out.

Ready model after manual finishing.

Sketch Design Logo