After downloading the PNG file of FabISP key, wiring diagram, assembly diagram and some picture, I compared wiring diagram with assembly diagram, for to create a check-list on my block-notes so as to understand which components were present and where they were staying.

I checked all components that we had, writing the codes on RS Components website, I saw the features and, one to one, I put them on my note-book, near to my check-list.

I uploaded it on Fab Modules and I followed the instructions for to make a *.rml file for Roland Mill machine. I had increment the offset to 8, for remove the copper in excess, also I selected out machine SRM-20.

After that, I changed the cutter tip with 1/64”, for to make the traces, PCB traces and I set for the first xy axes and after z axis. For this I had to unscrew the tip of the machine, to place it over the board and screwed again. Finally I push inside the software the * .rml file and I stared.

Changing the cutter tip with 1/64.

Setting xy axis.



Setting xy axis.

Machine at work.



After about ten minutes, the first work had finish. So I created the PCB outline file *.rml, this time with any offset. Coming back on machine, I changed the tip and started another time. After three minutes, the work ended.

creating the PCB outline file.

Machine at work.



Work finished.

Remove remaining of the material.



I washed the board, for to prepare welding. I soldered all component, in this way: for the big component, like ATtiny44a, I soldered for first a corner pin, than the opposite corner pin and so on. When I soldered all components I heated the copper track for ten seconds, next I put a bit of welding, and counted for five seconds. So I could weld the components without cold solder joints, or almost, because I'm a beginner.

Me at work.

Welding the components.



ATtiny44a, first component soldered.

Other components soldered.



I hadn't any double pin, so I looked for some old electronic board, desoldered the pins with hot air, and I soldered them on my FabISP.

Desoldered the pins from old electronic board.

Pins soldered on my FabISP Key.



When I finished, I made a check of solder joint, with tester. I found one connection error. So I correct this link, with solder.



Before to programming the FabISP, I had to download:

  • Avrdude (for programming
  • GCC (to compile C code)
  • sudo apt-get install flex byacc bison gcc libusb-dev avrdude
    sudo apt-get install gcc-avr
    sudo apt-get install avr-libc 

    After I downloaded the Firmware and unzip it:

    cd ~/Desktop
    wget http://academy.cba.mit.edu/classes/embedded_programming/firmware.zip 
    unzip firmware.zip

    Than I edited the Make File, in Firmware directory. In this file there were:

    cd ~/Desktop
    wget http://academy.cba.mit.edu/classes/embedded_programming/firmware.zip 
    unzip firmware.zip

    So I removed the "#" in front of the line with "usbtiny" in it, added a "#" to beginning the line with the "avrisp2" in it to comment it out and save it.
    Finally I tried to program the FabISP:

    make clean 
    make hex
    sudo make fuse
    sudo make program

    So I verified that my FabISP worked correctly:

    lsusb


    The program was loaded correctly, but my PC didn't found it.

    I made another check, and I found a very important error. The GND connection there wasn't! The PNG files was wrong. For to be sure, I saw the wiring diagram, and I was right. In fact, for a further confirmation, I connected all GND's component with simple electrical wires, and I tried the FabISP, so it worked well.

    But, I did another important error, I made fuse another time, so I locked the Attiny, so the FabISP not worked more.
    Well, at last I decided to remade my FabISP from zero. I desoldered from old FabISP and soldered all components above the new electronic board, except the Attiny. I had to take the new one for this FabISP.

    After many attempts, I succeeded to load the softwre on my FabISP, but the computer didn't see it, another time. But this time I check it on another PC, and it worked well. But for a further confirmation I tried it on another PC, and I see that it worked well.

    At last I used the heat gun for to protect the circuit from any shock, oxidation and also waterproof (splash-proof).

    Use of hot glue gun.

    Protected FabISP Key with hot glue.



    Sketch Design Logo