At this stage of the end of the fabacademy, I wasn't able to proof the concept of this pump. I need more time to investigate the feasability and design a making process that's simple enough for anybody to do it.
Though, I will explain on this page all the work I did so far.
Here is the global development process I have in mind :
I see two main categories : "Heart" type and "Esophagus" type.
I will start to focus on the Heart type as I think it could be an interesting step towards the peristaltic type.
As shown above, I see my project having 5 different axis of development :
Hence, this Table Of Content :
The many parts produced along the way :
Here is the set up that I will use to evaluate how my system works :
Here is the process of development for the Pump's shell :
the goal here is to experiment and prototype with shapes and materials for the pump shell that will embody the Nitinol.
I first want to have a "feel" of the different hardness of the rubbers and silicon that we have in the lab, so I make some basic test in the shape of a tube with different "shores" (basic parameter for rubber hardness) using pipes pieces for forming :
Different casts, gradient of hardness from left to right :
Now that I get a better feel of the different kinds of rubber available in the lab, I choose the EcoFlex OO50, to me it matches the softness and solidity I'm looking for. It also cures in 4 hours, better than most of the others (16 hours)
I first try a method that involves 3D printing the forms to cast a slim silicon tube :
I print 2 parts and laser cut a cap :
I place the cap at the bottom of the inside form :
Here is the form ready for pouring the rubber :
I pour the formsil25 (running many things in parallel, this happen to be poured before the choice of using ecoflex 0050.
Here is the result without the outside form :
I decide to abandon this way of making the shell because it's difficult to embbed the nitinol wire. It would imply having sealed holes in the forms to let the Nitinol out.
I decide to try pouring the silicon on a rotating form instead.
I first try on a sponge fixed on a drill. I have the idea that sealing the outside of the sponge could be a way to create a "heart"-type pump with check valves.
Interesting result after curing, I'm sure it could be useful for something :
The sealing works. But I clearly need to have a better control on the rotation.
Plus, before I go ahead and pour a second layer with the nitinol wires in between I want first to run many tests of Nitinol contracting rings of rubber.
I then decide to pour not on a sponge (to save the amount of sponges I would use) but on a cylinder form, using a gestal node with its stepper motor for rotation :
Here, the part of the python program that runs the stepper motor forever at a chosen rotation speed :
I laser cut cardboard holders for inside and outside :
I use this method to produce several nitinol rings for testing.
Here, the second layer poured that embeds the Nitinol wire :
To make quickly several rings of Nitinol, I separate them with tape and pour at once :
Then, in parallel, I try a way of creating the pump sides.
My idea is to have the check valves directly in the ends, so I need some sort of a reducer on each side.
I design one in Solidworks :
And 3d print it :
I used the "spiral" function in Cura to print quickly only the shell. I'm happy with the result :
Here is my pump form ready to be coated with Silicon :
I make a coating test without Nitinol because I just want to check if the Silicone is enough stretchable to take the form out after curing.
Unfortunately, it broke :
We have some filament in the lab that dissolves in water, so I had the idea to make a dissovable form :
But I wasn't able to tame this filament and it was starting to use up too much time..
Here a video of different stages of these experiments :
I decided then to take an intermediate step in the general process and have just a deformable cylinder closed by plastic parts with grooves where tie wraps pressure seals the system :
Here are the sources files of the projects I talked about in this section :
Here is the process of development for the Valves :
The idea here is to do duck-bill valves, which are one-way or check valves. they look like this commercially :
Here is how it works :
I design a three part mold :
I design a two part mold for the third part (the inside) of the previous molding strategy :
I mill the mold in wax :
I'm running out of wax, so I start recycling by melting the wax chips :
I first use a pot.
But that's not really efficient because I'm milling cubes in a big cylinder
I then decide to make a mold for wax recycling.
I first design and laser cut acrylic to make two box forms
It always starts by finding the right kerf by doing small fitting tests :
I then asemble the boxes
And place the little one in the big one :
I pour Mold Max 60 (Silicon that resist higher heats than wax melting ones) :
And I get a nice mold :
There is some very thin tongues due to the joints but it doesn't matter since the milling mainly occurs in the middle of the wax bloc :
I can then melt wax chips in the oven :
And recycle wax blocs :
Then I surface them :
And mill my molds :
Here I cast the internal negative of the valve :
Here it is after curing :
Then I assemble the valve three part mold and cast the silicon.
Pour the silicon :
And place the third part (internal negative)
I let it cure for 4 hours...
And demold :
And here is the Valve :
I just need to slice cut the top with a very sharp knife :
Family picture of all the mold parts :
Here are the sources files of the projects I talked about in this section :
Here is the process of development for the fittings :
I start designing the parts in Solidwork :
Then I 3d print them :
I put the duckbill valve I designed and made on it :
I insert it in a hose pipe :
I use a collar to tighten it and I run a test. The hose pipe is filled with water : Absolutely no water goes through the Valve, nice!
I also want, for conveniency, to have a simple hose-to-hose on way connector (with the valve), so I design it :
And 3d print it :
I put the valve on :
Then I thighten it :
The 3d print leaks a lot. I decide to cast this connector
I try casting in between 3D printed parts :
Does not work since it's impossible to take the form away after.
I design then a mold for casting in wax :
I pour liquid plastic using a vent :
And here we go we have it :
The components :
I then do the same as earlier, I put the valve :
And try the one way connector :
In this video I first inhale and you can hear the bubbling, air goes through up the valve and water inside the upper hose. Then I make pressure to try to push water down... impossible
Here are the sources files of the projects I talked about in this section :
Again, Here is how Nitinol works and what my strategy is for contraction :
And here is the process of development for the nitinol rings :
In order to anneal (590°C) the Nitinol into the contracted state, I need to design a form that will hold it in the Oven.
It then needs to be a material that can withstand high temperatures.
I plan to cast it with plaster.
In order to cast the plaster holder I need to do a mold based on a parametric design that mimics the contraction of the wire.
I use Grasshopper for this :
Here the complete algorithm :
In green here, the Nitinol wire :
I "bake" the grasshopper geometry (negative) and make a positive mold out of it :
I use fabmodules to calculate the toolpath :
And here is the wax positive mold :
I use Ecoflex 0050 to make the mold
I usually need a good degassing with Ecoflex :
For this I use a vaccum pump that wi have in the lab :
Nice bubbling that indicates that air that was trapped is going out :
And after curing I get :
Now I cast with plaster (marblecast) and I obtain my annealing holder for the oven.
you can see in the following picture the Nitinol Wire inside of the channel :
I make several shapes, taking benefit of the parametric design :
To be noticed that the length of the Nitinol wire remains always the same :
Here is another mold (postive) :
For silicon (negative) mold :
Plaster casting :
Same, Nitinol wire inside :
Heating to 590°C in the oven :
And we get our annealed shape :
Let's try it in hot water :
I realized that I was quite lucky the first time. The plaster mold almost always cracks during annealing.
I would have to do ceramics but I don't have the time.
Instead, I'll do a metal holder with screws in a metal plate.
For this, I use my parametric design :
...to print the position of the holes
I drill the holes :
... in the metal plate :
Put the bolts :
And weave the Nitinol in between :
I quench it after annealing :
And remove the bolts...
I do this twice to start with and I then have my freshly annealed Nitinol, in the contracted position :
Now I put them back into the circular (expanded) position :
I then lay them around the first layer of silicone I applied around my pump shell form :
Coat another layer of silicone so that the Nitinol is sandwiched in between the two layers :
Here is an example of the many test rings I did :
And here is the contraction by having electricity going through it :
Here is an example with two wires :
But the silicon is too thick on this one to allow the Nitinol to contract properly :
And here I ran out of time to go further into finding a valid set of parameters for Silicon / Nitinol to properly contract.
Here are the sources files of the projects I talked about in this section :
In this section we design and make the electronic driver board to run the electricity through the Nitinol wire in order to heat it up and make it go back to its shape.
Here is the process of development for the board :
I draw the Schematic with Eagle :
Make the Layout :
Populated it :
Now, to validate the board, I will do a two Nitinol wire test :
Video of the Driver Board in action :
Here are the sources files of the projects I talked about in this section :
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