avana LLC


03_05 to 10_05 2017

1. Read the material safety data sheet (MSDS) and technical data sheet (TDS) for the resins that you're using 2. Design and fabricate a 3D mold (~ft2) and produce a fiber composite part in it

Academy files

14_Week work:

Rinhoceros, 123D make, Adobe Ilustrator

CamFive 900x600

Cement, paper, glass, textile, Polyester resin and catalyst

Drive files:
Download week work /

Archive files:
composites_mold.pdf / composites_pot.ai

Rhinoceros + 123D Maker:
For the 3D modeling design for composite assignment, I use the Rhinoceros program, creating a model of dish with a design related to the final project, in this case wanted to symbolize the waves of moving water. Once the design is done export it to .stl format in order to open it into the 123D make program.

Once the file has been imported in 123d make, use the "Stacked Slices" tool, it divides the object into layers to cut it into the laser cutter, and generates a 2D document with the assembly instructions, numbered in the material itself. I had to modify the properties of the material in manufacturing settings so that the layers were of the size indicated. Finally I exported the file in .pdf format.

Adobe Illustrator:

I Used Adobe Illustrator to rectify a design flaw that was not taken into account, the mold should have a distance between mold and counter mold so that it could fit all 5 layers of fabric and resin. So draw a 3mm thick ring inside the circles.

Mold 1 - This is the photo of the first mold that realizes without taking into account the distance between the molds. The pieces did not close between them, with and without material in the middle.

Mold 2 - success. This time thanks to the changes made with the Adobe Illustrator and include that ring with the separation distance the mold fits perfectly.

For this assignment the materials I have used have been:

- Mold made in MDF of 3mm counted with the laser cutter.

- Thin fabric 65% polyester 35% cotton, (with cuts in the 3 axes to adapt to the mold better, without generating wrinkles in the final object.)

- Polyester resin 65% unsaturated. Styrene monomer. 35%. This is not the resin recommended by the Fab Academy, since we had problems shipping from the United States, we had to choose to look for other solutions. This resin is for industrial use so you have to be very careful with safety standards. Poliester Resine - safety data sheet

- Catalyst for polyester resin.

The first thing is the safety rules, so make sure that I properly equip myself before I start, with safety goggles and gloves and a mask to not suck the toxin vapors from the resin when carrying out the process. Once properly fitted, I made the mixture of the components suggested by the product. For every 30ml add 12 drops of catalyst. In my case I had to use 90ml of resin so I add 36 drops of catalyst, and mix it to proceed to apply it to the fabric. I added layer by layer resin and the fabric. In a total of 5 layers. Once all the material impregnated with the resin compound, I put the countermold on top to exert pressure through a bench vise. Let it dry 18h. To finally proceed to remove the part from the mold.

When removing the object from the mold, there were excesses of hair on the edges, which I removed with the scissors, leaving the piece cleaner. The idea was to create a container that would serve the final project as a container to put the liquid in the center of the speaker, following the same shape that had designed it to the wood. Giving a sense of continuity between the two objects. Wishing reflections the shape of a drop falling into the water, and its waves that extend from the center, from where the sound of the project is born.

Otros procesos:
I used other processes to make composite materials. In this case experiment with a cement compound with paper, to make a pot. My goal was to lower the weight of the pot but with a similar result. Therefore, carry out the following process: - First cut the 2 mm MDF molds in the laser cutter, with a geometric shape. One for the experimenter and the other for the inside of the pot. - I had to stick the edges of the mold with tape, so that it did not come out the liquid.

- Once the mold was assembled, I made a mixture of newspaper paper dipped and undone into small logs with cement. In an amount of 70% paper 30% cement. - The mixture inserted into the mold the free spaces between the two molds, pressing to compact the final object. - Once I filled the mold I let it dry for about 4 hours and I was already removing the mold, since I was afraid that the cement would stick to the MDF, if I expected more. I finally removed it dry enough to get a good result.

The results have been quite satisfactory, since the weight of the pot has been reduced much more than expected and the appearance does not very hardly compared to a pot that is totally of cement. I worried about watering the plant, in case the paper dries, but the amount of cement has been adequate to waterproof the material enough so that this does not happen. On the other hand, the paper keeps the plant humid, so I think it has been an interesting mix to take into account.

Other materials:
In this case I used the same process but changing the material's fields. Mix 40% glass and 60% quick cement. This time remove the mold faster to be able to go washing the cement and air the pieces of glass. The result was not what I expected, since you hardly appreciate the crystals. It should have made a more homogenous blend with different colored glasses, to make it more visible.