fabacademy

FAB ACADEMY 2017 / WIM LANZ

Feb 22: 3D scanning and printing


This week I explored the world of 3D scanning and finally started 3D printing all kind of different objects.

3D Scanning with Scann3D, Kinect and Skanect


I started to explore all kind of scanning systems. I found one that I really liked which is calling Scann3D. It is a free app for android where you can walk around the object and take pictures (i did like 18 pictures) for this tetrapak of ananas juice. Afterwards you can export the file as a ".obj" or a ".stl" file. Also have a look at Astrivis, which is also a mobile scanning software from the eth zurich. I think the benefit of that tools is that you always have a 3D scanner in your pocket if your out and don't have a kinect or something similar to use. After that I started with Skanect, and Kinect cameras from Microsoft XBOX360. If think the only kinect from microsoft that works is the number "1414". You can look on the bottom of your kinect to see whats the serialnumber. Skanect is a really nice scanning software that gives you also texture if you want so. To use it you just need do define what you want to scan, either a "Body" or a "Object" and define how big the box should be in which it scans. When you start the scan you always should turn the object (or in this case myself). I think it don't work when you turn the kinect around the object. I made one round to scan and afterwards you should make also one from the top to get all the hairs and texture in. I also made some complete bodyscans from myself, for that I just turned the kinect vertical, and made a third round on the bottom to have the legs also scanned.

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Meshmixer


Last week I used 123d make for making an assignment. This time I cleaned my 3D scan with meshmixer, which is also a tool from Autodesk. I imported the file in meshmixer and at first I made a "plane cut" to delete the part I don't want from my scan. Then I used "make slices" to separate everything, so I could delete the small bits and layers that I didn't use. Last step was to "make solid". That gives you a bottom piece and closes all holes you have left. You can make here a lot of fine tuning that it suits for you. I wanted to go with the lowpoly look so I adjusted it to my likings.

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Cura and Reprap 3D printer


As part of the group assignment we downloaded a test model from thingiverse to try out our printers and see how to set it up to perform the quality of our printings. You can have a look at our group assignment on this page. To do we used cura, a 3D slicer program that allows you to chose among several options. Most important and common ones to play with are: Layer height (this will determine the quality of our printing in height) / Line Width (this will determine the quality of our printing in width, it shouldn't be a lot less than the noozle diameter) / Percentage of infill (this sets up an internal mesh in our object, to make it less heavy but still resistant) / Supports (this create some external supports in case we need them to hold any part that couldn't be printed without them). When we liked the printed file I finally could print my own files. I took my files in to cura and made the adjustments that the walls are enough thick and changed the "fill density" to my prefered specs. Cura is nice you can see all the layers and how the printer will create your object. It helps a lot so u can see if you need stabilisation or if there is something wrong with your model. After that I let the printer works his magic. In the meantime I started to make an other small project to 3D print. I designed a lightning in Adobe Illustrator exported it as a ".svg" file and imported it to blender, changed the "extrude" and send it also over cura to the Reprap printer. I forgot to made a hole in the 3D file so afterwards I used a drillbit to make a hole in the lightning and now carry it with me all the time on my keychain.


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Making a phone mount for my bike


For a long time I wanted to make a mount to store my phone on my handlebars. At first I tought it would be a good idea to do it in rhino. But I was so wrong. I think if you use rhino without grasshoppers its quite tricky to calculate everything perfectly. At least the render looked good ;). After that I rethinked the whole thing and a friend of me helped with taking all the measurements on my bike and transfer it over to solidworks. I start to really enjoy the programm and also getting to learn all the possibilities it brings. Like "mirroring" your sketches, making "fillets" and working with the different kind of algorythms. I really want to learn and make more stuff in Solidworks, because its great when you want to engineer something correctly. Then I sended the file to the 3D printer over cura. I cnaged the "Infill Density" afterwards to 20% and let the printer do the work. I put support under the object that it could print it nicely. What i forget was to put the supportsetting to "Everything". I prepared the hole to ziptie it on and put some zipties on it that it has some support when it prints it. My ghettofix worked great. The whole process of printing took me 04:38. You can also see in the structure that I started to experiment with the speed of the printer. After I saw that it was doing well I speeded up the printer to 220% for the rest of the time. I made a mistake at printing and when i want to disamble the object away from the glass it broke a little bit. I fixed it with glue overnight. And next time i should print it verticaly that all my holding points getting stronger. After that when it was finished i found out that the front mounts wouldnt clear my brakelevers so i just cutted them away and mounted them with zipties. I am really happy with the first prototyp for my bike mount. It holds really strong and all the clamps and snaps work great. I think it really helped to measure everything as precise as i could. Next time I have some time left i try to improve the prototype.

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Click here to download all the files.