Frame Building

BOM, techniques and timings

ID Material Where to find Material Cost Technique Work Time
Base MDF 3mm (60x30cm) Bricolage shops 0.85 € laser cutter/engraving 7m:53s
Middle section plywood 8mm Bricolage shops 3.25 € laser cutter/engraving 24m:55s
Top cover plywood 4mm Bricolage shops 2.25 € laser cutter/engraving 15 min
Top diffuser chiffon Textiles shop 4.50 € composite? n/a
Hardware 10 x magnets (10x1mm)
2 x spring steel laminae
nails
neoprene glue
Hardware shops 10 x 0.50 €
2 x 0.30 €
--
6.00 €
n/a n/a

Work files links

SketchUp design file for the frame
scoreboard.skp

Preparing the base

Before cutting the piece with the laser cutter, I spent a lot of time to try all different settings trying to find a good tradeoff between speed and power for the job, for all the different job types and materials. In the end I obtained these parameters for 3mm hardboard:

Job type Work speed Work acc Corner acc Pow Min pow Repetitions
Light Draw 150 800 800 16 14 1
Cut 35 800 800 55 30 1
Engrave 1mm depth 200 800 800 60 60 2 (scan 0.2)
Engrave 0.3mm depth 500 800 800 80 80 2 (scan 0.2)

After the parameters were ok, I exported the base design in DXF format and loaded into the LaserCut software.

I cutted in 4 parts, roughly of 20x20mm, the spring steel laminae, I sanded a little bit the engraved squares and used a drop of super-glue to put the parts in place. This is where the magnets will hold parts of the top cover.

Work files links

Rhino 3DM file for base part, with LaserCut software project and GCode
base.zip

Preparing the middle layer

Once again I spent some time to search the optimals parameters. In the end I obtained these for 8mm plywood:

Job type Work speed Work acc Corner acc Pow Min pow Repetitions
Light Draw 150 800 800 18 13 1
Cut 19 800 800 80 70 1
Engrave 1mm depth 500 800 800 80 80 2 (scan 0.2)

Once again, I exported the base design in DXF format and loaded into the LaserCut software.

After removing the excess parts, I glued the magnets into the circular grooves with a bit of super-glue. The other grooved parts are needed as clearance for the PCBs.

Work files links

Rhino 3DM file for middle layer part, with LaserCut software project and GCode
middle.zip

Preparing the top cover

Once again I spent some time to search the optimals parameters, with no need for engraving settings. In the end I obtained these for 4mm plywood:

Job type Work speed Work acc Corner acc Pow Min pow Repetitions
Light Draw 150 800 800 18 13 1
Cut 35 800 800 55 30 1

Once again, I exported the base design in DXF format and loaded into the LaserCut software.

The top cover is really simple because it has no grooves and no incisions at all.

Work files links

Rhino 3DM file for top cover part, with LaserCut software project and GCode
top.zip

Assembling and finishing

The last step in building the frame was to assemble the parts together and give them a nice finishing look. The assembly process is quite simple and straightforward: glue the parts together and then apply pressure for a couple of hours to tightly attach them.

I used a neoprene glue, spreading it evenly on the two surface to attach. Then waited a couple of minutes and joined the parts.

The final result is really good and the two main parts fits tightly together.

As a finishing touch I decided to paint everything with black acrylic spray.

To diffuse light evenly I wanted to try a kind of experimental composite if I can call it that. After a couple of trials I found that the best material to diffuse light without blocking it too much has to be a as thin as possible. I tried to avoid material with strong "texture" (plain paper for example) and ended up choosing the tissue paper.

The next step was to choose another material to mask what's inside the frame, so that only the lit segments will be highly visible, and nothing else. There are a lot of materials that could be used for this, and I tried a couple of them, ranging from smoked plexyglass to thin black pvc sheets, but all of them worked too much, and attenuated the light coming from the LEDs a lot!

So I focused my attention on fabrics, and I experimented with flax and cotton, but they were all too tick. Then I found a fabric called chiffon, that is essentially a really thin synthetic material.

To hold everything together I used spray glue, and kept strong pressure between parts for about an hour. The resulting composite was layered like the sketch below, and the effect is really neat!