DESIGN              
            -This week we are doing composites. i decided to experiment more and not just use it as a rigid surface composed of layers,
 but as a resilient surface that bends but still holds it's shape.
       -My design was so simple while modeling but was difficult at milling yet more difficult at adding the composites. the digital design
 was made with RHINO 4 . then i used RHINOCAM to get the GCODE for the CNC cutting machine
      -I used two files one for the rough phase using the 12mm pin and the other was the fine one using the 6mm pin. The rough phase is
 basically done in horizontal lines with a bold pin moves only along horizontal line roughing the material . while the finalizing one is in the
 opposite direction with a finer pin for a finer resolution.

     -On the left img is the ROUGH job Gcode, if you opened gcode on your computer using word-pad you will get this image, bunch of vertices.
 that's what rhino cam does after setting the pin's radius and depth it coordinates each vertex to the zero point resulting a digital code
for the machine. so basically rhino cam is like a translator between the digital model to the physical world. 
 

                                                     MILLING
after sending the files to the machine and fixing your foam piece, you start calibrating the zero point to move the X & Y you do them manually
 with the arrows the big ones move faster than the smaller ones and the Z has to be above the material and it's adjusted with the up and down,
 the green arrow is the maximum up while the red sown is the maximum down which will be 100 according to the materials thickness. Speed
you can increase it up to 96 as foam is a flexible material will not the break the tool. you send jobs one by one, first the rough then after 100%
you click DONE then ADD NEW FILE TO THE JOB and send the other one after changing the tool
 
 

                                                     LASER CUTTING
     While milling the model i prepared the fabric layer using RHINO5 to unfold the model using the command SQUISH. Cut it with the laser
 cutter on a cotton fabric. CAREFUL while unfolding any file rhino explode the shape automatically don't forget to either join the segments
 or redraw it in a neat way if you had to. because if you send it to the machine the same way you got it from rhino the machine will read the line
 in pieces and you will just use more power and get an inaccurate result.
     -IF that happened DONT pull the fabric, use a cutter not any force because natural fabrics are like a mesh with perpendicular grids so if
 you teared the connected part you will screw the whole part.
         -Be aware that the unfolded shape rhino5 gave you probably wont fit your mold due the probable inaccuracy of the milling machine. for
 example here at my design the sides were too steep so that the pin didn't penetrate the foam exactly the way it is in the model. So i had to cut
 the extra parts even after laser cutting.

 
                                                     cooking
     -After two hours of milling and laser cutting, both the mold and the fabric are now ready for the cooking. I then started mixing the
 EPOXY with the HARDENER with ratio 2:1 respectively. then i dipped the fabric in it make sure it's all covered with the mixture, then
 squeeze it to get rid of the extra past.
 this transparent layer facilitates the removal of the composite off the foam after finishing so you start with it then you composite
 layers then another additional one to protect it from the white cotton layer. TIP my design was complicated it had a lot of imperfections
 so a tip for you in the future add the layers separately from the model respectively as mention then apply them all together at the same
 time on the model to avoid wrinkles or sticking into your gloves.

 

                                                     EVACUATING 
     -Preparing the bag by cleaning the inside from the previous job and making sure that both the front and the back side are perfectly
 closed to prevent air from entering the bag. the tool has to be perpendicular on the  foam preferably away from your design and on the
 cotton sheet.
After a nearly six hours i took the model out IT WAS A MESS!

 FIRST the cotton layer wasn't easily removed i had to pull it off by force, which means the fabric wasn't completely covered with the
           transparent paper from above SECOND most of the folds were wrinkled which means either the fabric was too much, or it wasn't put properly
and in my case it was both 
THIRD the tips were almost impossible to remove because they weren't covered very well with the transparent sheet from beneath
                   
SECOND TRIAL
i simplified the model made it with less edges and tried a new material now it was CORK, by goin through same steps regardless the material
 took more time but the results were good enough